This longstanding Battersea restaurant is a site to which all wine merchants in the capital pay homage-its wine list, put together by owner & expert Martin Lam is well-priced, brilliantly annotated and rejects many big names for better value, more interesting alternatives. What's more, when Lam himself is not present, the manager is more than able to guide diners through its many pages. But don't make the mistake of overlooking the cooking. Both Lam and his wife Vanessa run the kitchen. The menu is littered with classic British produce- Morecambe Bay potted shrimps,[Welsh] lamb from Elwy Valley, -carefully prepared and served in gen erous portions, greatly innovative it may not be, but quail salad with dates and oranges, and calf's liver with chorizo and spinach...are a pleasure to eat.